Stage 12: observability & performance (OTel/OTLP, domain metrics, guest GC)

- pkg/telemetry: shared OTel provider bootstrap (none/stdout/otlp + W3C
  propagators + Go runtime metrics); backend/internal/telemetry becomes a thin
  facade keeping its gin middleware.
- Telemetry parity: gateway and the Telegram connector gain telemetry runtimes
  and config (GATEWAY_/TELEGRAM_ SERVICE_NAME + OTEL_*); otelgrpc instruments the
  backend push server, the gateway's backend+connector clients and the connector
  server. Default exporter stays none (collector/dashboards are Stage 14).
- Operational metrics (variant attribute on game-scoped ones): game_replay_duration,
  game_move_validate_duration, games_started_total, games_abandoned_total,
  game_cache_active, chat_messages_total{kind}, gateway edge_request_duration.
  Wired via the SetMetrics setter pattern (default no-op meter).
- TODO-3: account.GuestReaper deletes guests with no game seat past
  BACKEND_GUEST_RETENTION (default 30d, swept every BACKEND_GUEST_REAP_INTERVAL).
- Tests: pkg/telemetry exporter selection; game/social/edge metric recording via
  a manual reader; config (otlp accepted, guest knobs); inttest guest reaper.
- Docs: PLAN.md re-scopes Stage 12 and adds Stage 13 (alphabet-on-wire) + Stage 14
  (CI/deploy) with the agreed dictionary-versioning resolution; ARCHITECTURE 11/13,
  TESTING, the three READMEs and FUNCTIONAL(+ru) updated.

backend/internal/pushgrpc/server.go

@@ -11,6 +11,7 @@ import (
 	"fmt"
 	"net"
 
+	"go.opentelemetry.io/contrib/instrumentation/google.golang.org/grpc/otelgrpc"
 	"go.uber.org/zap"
 	"google.golang.org/grpc"
 
@@ -78,7 +79,7 @@ func NewServer(addr string, hub *notify.Hub, log *zap.Logger) *Server {
 	if log == nil {
 		log = zap.NewNop()
 	}
-	gs := grpc.NewServer()
+	gs := grpc.NewServer(grpc.StatsHandler(otelgrpc.NewServerHandler()))
 	pushv1.RegisterPushServer(gs, NewService(hub, log))
 	return &Server{grpc: gs, addr: addr, log: log}
 }