Stage 16: deploy infra & test contour

- backend + gateway multi-stage distroless Dockerfiles; the gateway embeds and
  serves the SPA at / and /telegram/ via go:embed (committed dist placeholder,
  real build baked in by the image's node stage)
- deploy/docker-compose.yml: backend + gateway + Postgres + Telegram connector
  (VPN sidecar) + OTel Collector + Prometheus (15d) + Tempo (72h) + Grafana,
  fronted by a caddy owning a single /_gm Basic-Auth (admin console + Grafana
  subpath); inter-service on a private network, only caddy on the edge network
- new metrics: backend accounts_created_total{kind} (robots excluded) and an
  in-memory gateway active_users{window=24h,7d} gauge
- CI: single .gitea/workflows/ci.yaml (unit/integration/ui + a gated test-contour
  deploy) on the new feature/* -> development -> master branch model; the old
  go-unit/integration/ui-test workflows are folded in; the connector-scoped
  compose is retired (superseded by deploy/)
- docs: ARCHITECTURE §11/§12/§13, root + gateway READMEs, CLAUDE.md branching,
  PLAN.md (stage 16 done + refinements + Stage 17 forward-notes)

backend/cmd/backend/main.go

@@ -132,6 +132,7 @@ func run(ctx context.Context, cfg config.Config, logger *zap.Logger) error {
 	hub := notify.NewHub(0)
 
 	accounts := account.NewStore(db)
+	accounts.SetMetrics(tel.MeterProvider().Meter("scrabble/backend/account"))
 	games := game.NewService(game.NewStore(db), accounts, registry, cfg.Game, logger)
 	games.SetNotifier(hub)
 	games.SetMetrics(tel.MeterProvider().Meter("scrabble/backend/game"))